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Robots for Robots » Posts by leftcorporation
mekonin wrote:Revok wrote:Erroraudio wrote:D-50 ???
Perhaps a D-550, then. I can't afford the space for another large keyboard just for the sake of having those sounds.
Th k1m looks appealing because it still offers an accessible control surface despite being a module. 8 bit waveforms, too. Also, it wouldn't look out of place in the cockpit of Darth Vader's Tie Fighter 
But having never played it I'm just not sure how useful it is.
It's pretty useful, but don't expect too much. I use it mainly for choirs trough lots of effects, but it can be programmed intensively. Perfect for metallic digital EBMish sounds.
I had a k1m it's pretty cheap, the sounds are very good but it's fairly limited in terms of programming, can do a lot of weird digital harshness if necessary, no filters, no effects just ring modulation and layering of PCM samples. I'd go the D550 or K4R
lixa-6 wrote:Well well turns out getting a new cable got my pg200 working, so happy it was that simple. I will have to check that out and see if the bender works as an alternative to the sens slider on mine, who would of thought of trying that well you leftcorporation.
Fader lube i will buy now too, no dont want fuck stuff up, the expensive option will be wiser.
Well that was an easy fix, that's a good thing! I don't know if the bender thing is unique to my particular one, definetly want feedback on that. Don't think it's been documented anywhere else 
I have the same setup and my sens slider is stuffed too in the exactly the same way, never stopped me. I don't whether it's just my JX3P or not but instead of the sens slider you can use the pitch bender!!! Put into edit mode and push the bender you should see the LED move as you edit the parameter. If it doesn't it means my particular 3P is special
I'd check the cable with a multimeter if you have, see if all the pins connect. Do the lights come on the programmer?
teknob wrote:
A quick grainy shot taken at the new place... not yet all setup, but cable spaghetti already growing. This time I have a good foot between the monitor and back wall, the opposite wall is full of books. maybe I just need to hang something under the ceiling.
Whoah that is very serious. Hey you got some new stuff! What's that keyboard with the light blue graphics?
So glad it's not just me but I haven't had one of those for a while because I haven't played with synths as much as used to lately! 
The one I remember the clearest was years ago I had a dream about a TS-303. It was an acid machine. It looked like a TR-505 which i had at the time except the LCD display was in the middle and had a lot more knobs. The more disturbing dream was when i was playing an upright brown wooden piano except that it said ARP Axxe on it. Then i found myself not being able to detach myself from it, I had been fused!
Oh yeah I have the Arp Axxe back in action after sitting in my mum's garage for 8 years!! It's making the same squealing and squawking noises as it did before, next step is filter modification and cleaning it up a bit
Well I got prematurely excited last night fitting the power supplyboard on the arp axxe. It now powers on at least and the little power light comes on but there is not sound....yet!
ha ha.
No seriously, could anybody that fixes these types of things do it? There are a few people in town I can think of.
Could be an easy fix, a switch or a solder joint most likely it is!
Sounds like an easy fix, send it to me along with a big wad of cash 
Will also get a chance to modify the filter too, it's going to be a whole new ARP world. My mate has a Future Retro 777 which i can borrow as a midi/cv converter...
Anyone have any links on what re-capping old synths involves? I know it means replacing capacitors but which ones with what sort? The Jupiter 4 has been noisy for a while.
I'm also looking forward to getting my old ARP Axxe working again, I bought a replacement power supply board for it.
I've got my JP8000 working again like it should, with all the keys/ buttons and sliders working. It took a few hours and it looks like a dog's breakfast inside but it works. Will post pics soon.
I do this all the time, you must use a mono cable from experience. Mini jack mono cable and a mini jack to big jack converter at the end. Works just fine from the 707.
I would concurr with TONY COPS, the Jupiter-4 is very different and they are starting to go up now. I've had mine at a friends place for months I might get it back.
This Neud Photo guy is awesome and JP-4 is alll over it!
teknob wrote:rude66 wrote:leftcorporation wrote:Someone should open a robots repair shop me thinks.
i'm turning into a robot repair shop...
How are you with retrofitting midi kits? And how about leak-affected polysixes?
Midi kit should be no problem i fitted my own 3P upgrade kit, works fine. Not sure about the leaky polysix haven't looked at one before. I fixed non working knobs on the JP8000 currently trying to fix an harman-kardon amp.
You want a real feel keyboard i reckon. My experience is limited but the Kawai MP9500 is the best feeling and sounding electronic piano i've heard. I'm not sure but I think it has splittable zones too. I use the JP8000 as a controller and I like the fact it's splittable needs a lot more than 4 octaves though.
What is it? WHat does it do?
Freek wrote:very happy with my new little fat friend:
You got this synth spotter stumped.... What the hell is that?
unicity wrote:JX-3P plus PG-200 for $300?
I had a 3P long ago, but never with the PG. Would you replace a 106 with a 3P? I'm tempted.
That's a bargain. Grab it!
plikestechno wrote:helloooo...
Holy mother of god!!!! These are probably the rarest, I see SH-5's and even SH-1 come up for sale on ebay but not this puppy...
Back in the good ol country!
Can I request
Transistorbot
I would like to buy a decent MIDI module with realistic acoustic sounds that's multi-timbral what's the reccomendations??
Roland JV/XV series I'm thinking, I saw a JV-1010 for only $300AUD or should i get a JV-2080 for $500 AUD?
Someone should open a robots repair shop me thinks.
@automatique it sounds like a a solder point that has come loose open it up and have a look for any cracks or cut traces.
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Robots for Robots » Posts by leftcorporation
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