Am I crazy or was this extremely long overdue, right? Maybe like 15 years at least.

Hopefully I can find more videos/demos of it in action to confirm how awesome this appears to be before getting in way over my head - for 2 months -  with the soldering kit and multimeter etc., not to mention a housing that looks so great as this one.

So it is basically the tr808 equivalent of Adafruit's x0xb0x (tb303)... essentially the same build and parts I assume.?

Just glad I didn't buy the Roland AIRA... as I was so close. wink

Bankie Phones wrote:

I meant to post this w/r/t the Jx-3P. Glad you got it. B)

That video link is amazing - THANKS!

Can't believe I'd never seen this movie... even more unbelievable to me that it is pretty damn good - classic!

Gotta change my Facebook...
Status: "Wired To Kill"

The movie scene has me inspired!  New job has restricted ability to working on 'personal tracks' a bit less... still, of course, had to record the jx3p (a couple of basic presets w/ some minor tweaks) on a tune and it sounds really nice/distinctive. More clean than Juno6 but in a way I had hoped.

Thanks ZeHa... yes the Juno6 has DCOs, that's why I really wasn't all that concerned because it sounds massive.... so I got my JX-3p/KIWI-3p. cool

Wow, it sounds and looks GREAT!! Other than the editing being a bit of a chore at first (PGs don't work on the mod extras so you have to use the software editor) but this thing is proving to be way more versatile than I expected. 

Have not had much time to get a feel for all of the ins/outs quite yet, nor assign knobs on my BCR-2000 controller... really hoping the BCR works fine, some people have apparently had issues.  I don't want pay for the Kiwi Patch Editor at all... and confess to preferring knobs greatly over menu diving.

Still, 200% happy with decision ... it has all the things expected.... like the perfect/unique sounding strings ... and seemingly so much more with the mod.  Studio is crowded but my GF worked out a brilliant way to fit everything without too much clutter...

Now just facing the fact that I need to pay a pro tech to fix my Teac x1000 (can't ID the source of excessive noise) and I'll be back at full speed.... well 7.5ips anyway wink


ZeHa wrote:

Don't know about the mod, but I have a JX-8P and the sound is very nice, and it also has DCOs. Actually I thought the Juno also has DCOs, so I wouldn't worry about that if you like the Juno sound.

So I found a guy who is selling a PRISTINE JX-3P... but only after he installs the KIWI cpu upgrade which seems to make it closer to a Juno 106 (even the mighty Jupiter8) as far as added functionality.

I already had the JX-3P on a (relatively long) short list of future toys... I need to add one more good analog poly at least.

In short, he wants $700 for the upgraded synth which makes to mod cost nearly equal to the going rate for a stock 3p - which are just beautiful synths in this condition.  However, does the added capabilities to synth by the equally priced Kiwi Mod justify  the hike in price from a regular 3P.  I know it has the DCOs, not VCOs, but does that really make a substantial difference?  My Juno is the "biggest" sounding synth I have maybe... def if modular mono isn't considered.

I'm leaning towards yes... but was already torn between a Korg (monopoly/polysix) and most likely, Prophet 08' module for the current analog poly hole in my cockpit.   LOVE my Juno6 w Kenton Midi so much!!  The idea of a fully midi capable version with a 'close enough' sound and totally new sound options is so tempting.  I know my other options are different beasts... but that was my plan until this rarity popped up... rare for something on  Craigslist in the South, US.

Any thoughts on JX-3P... the KIWI mod, or the other synths in the running.  This is a big decision as I don't really want to take up space with more keyboard synths... so wanted maybe a little outside opinion/expertise etc.

The 'idea' of the Sovtek versions are really appealing... basically just because they seem kinda mysterious and made in Russia though. big_smile

Hopefully one comes thru a local store so I can try it sometime.

Thx. Certainly helpful.

I realize that the notion of "True Bypass" equals BETTER, in a sense, is "bullshit" in a lot of scenarios... and some argue BS outright supposedly.

but considering my FX chain for Live purposes is rather limited and small due to space and only 2 aux sends on my mixer... I'm more concerned with having to completely disengage the pedal when it's not in use due to noise or "tone sucking" etc. - though I realize a correctly configured rig should not have this problem no matter how many Amps/Pedals are involved.

That being said, I haven't heard ANY "glowing" reviews of the NANO, and some really bad ones now, so I think it is best to go for at least an 80s or earlier model.  Just hope it isn't excessively loud - will cost to fix or a pain to learn how to do it myself.  There is a specific MOD... Analog Man does it.

But the only video with synths and a Small Stone that I could find which gave a good idea of the sound (besides Jean M Jarre - the obvious example) use older models.  I think the version 2 is the one...

Thx again.

I have used a bunch of phasers... but am looking to buy a Small Stone based on its specific sound I have heard on certain tracks.  Yes,  I'd basically like to have "that string sound" that has made it a classic with synthesizer/Rhodes/Solina users... it does seem to have a unique character.

That being said, there are SO many different models - and possibly sacrifices to choosing a newer version like the Nano vs a version 1,2 etc. as  well as advantages such as True Bypass and less noise.

There are many comparisons of the different models online, but only with guitars it seems...  I will be using it with Roland (Juno6/60 and Jx3p), Korg (MS20/Polysix,Oddessey, DW8000), Prophet600, Moogs, Solina String Ensemble and Rhodes sounds almost exclusively... ie little to no guitar.  Almost done 'restoring' a String Ensemble and that has inspired my sudden need for one.  roll

Any opinions would be highly appreciated... which version is the best for that classic 70s sweep (considering True Bypass and less noise is good)?  If the original is the only way to go to get a rich tone... or the Nano is really close with more advantages: This is what I'm hoping to determine with some confidence before buying.


So, hypothetically, I have a great "bell/metallic tone" dialed into my mf-102 and Little Phatty but only when the note, C, is played.  I'd like to be able to keep the relationship between the Carrier Frequency and Input Osc Frequency constant so I can play the sound CHROMATICALLY.

Assuming I have the following:

Little Phatty w/ CV OUT MODS
MF-102 Ring Modulator

Any help/guidance would be most appreciated! Is there a way to patch these in order to preserve the Carrier/Input Osc frequencies?  The issue was addressed in the article, "Lord of the Ring Mods" BUT using a Voyager and VX-351.  Can anyone explain how to translate/apply this technique to the Phatty/MF-102 system - perhaps using the CP-251... here is the explanation using the Voyager/VX-351 from "Lord of the Ring Mods":

FYI:  I have a CP-251 with CV OUT MODS on the Phatty -

How would you go about patching the inputs/outputs in order to play the 'perfect metallic/bell tone' CHROMATICALLY?

This was explained in  an article, Lord of the Ring Modulator, BUT using a Voyager and VX-351 - if anyone knows how to apply/translate this to the MF-102/Phatty w/ CV Mod/CP-251 system - that would be MOST helpful!!

Here is the explanation for Voyager from "Lord of the Ring Mod" but WITHOUT THE GRAPHICS, sry:
4. Tracking Modulation
So far we’ve focused on the Carrier Oscillator, mainly using it to augment the Voyager’s three oscillators. It’s time to take
the rest of the Ring Modulator’s electronics for a spin and show what they can do.
Keep the Carrier Oscillator configured to track the Voyager’s Key Pitch, and connect the RM in the Voyager’s Mix/Out loop
using an Insert Cable as shown below.
With this new configuration in place, select a Voyager preset (any one will do), and switch off all but one of the Voyager
oscillators. Set the RM Drive knob to a comfortable level (about 9 o’clock on the dial should do it), set the Mix control to
100% and engage the pedal (the Bypass LED will be Green). Play a few notes on the Voyager while you adjust the RM’s
Frequency knob. Find a setting you like, and then play it up and down the keyboard. You’ll notice that the sound ‘tracks’
your playing, because the relationship between the Voyager oscillator and Carrier oscillator is constant. This setup allows
you to play electronic bells, chimes, metal bars – any ‘clangorous’ sound – chromatically.

Koova:  Thank you for the tips!  Two endorsements for Braids, hmmm, that thing does seem like a beast! With all of those specs  the possibilities seem pretty endless.  Versatility is a major factor as my first system started feeling limited rather fast. 
If it has "amazing sounds" and so many options "in one module", I don't suspect to be disappointed or become bored with it. But  you are right, it would be MUCH better to try before I buy.  The modular users in New Orleans that I know personally have pretty traditional setups and almost NONE of the newer options.  Very "East Coast" down South...

But no, I have not tried to find new people in New Orleans via Muffwiggler... excellent tip I should have already tried.   Indeed, it is incredibly overwhelming to plan, not to mention commit without being able to check em out first.  No desire to to start spending  $$ on whimsy... hopefully I can find a couple of builders within driving distance or just wait until I make a trip north.  Actually long overdue for a visit to NYC anyway...

Thanks again!

sneakthief:  haha, yeah that was a typo/mistake with the .com modules for a eurorack, of course.  I have had good, although rather brief, experiences with the q106 & q109 - suppose I just wished they were eurorack. my mistake.  will look into MI's Braids... huge bang for buck is  exactly what I need. thank you! as I have listened to some of your tracks for many years, I really appreciate the  tip!

Koova: indeed, that does seem like a sweet combination! more "westcoast" def makes more sense considering my other gear and needs.  The DPO was on my shortlist already - seems now like it may be the right choice.  The Rene looks nice too... but maybe a bit "dense" for my taste in a sequencer.   might be worth having  just to pair with the DPO.  all of the Make Noise units seem excellent (having that 'Buchla sound' would be amazing) so will be taking a closer look at each.  big thanks!!  And I live in New Orleans wink

Surely there are related discussions on this forum... but recent developments and newly available modules have led me to a new world of indecision.  I DON'T want my second system to be "conventional"... having sold my first for that reason (well, and the offer/selling price was kinda ridiculous). big_smile

So I'll pose just a couple of really general/relatively simple questions... perhaps some recommends will lead to a new favorite! 
My budget isn't so much 'small', but cost is definitely an important concern... so anything with great cost/value is always nice, of course.

If you were building a new 8-16 space Eurorack setup, for all the modular freaks and robots out there, what modules are the most essential/must haves to you... or new Favorites?  The 'crazier' the better and any suggestion is most welcome!

These are a few I'd like to check out and/or have had good experience with.  Using a computer to control modular system seems a bit, err, 'anti-climactic maybe.? But MANY people swear by Silent Way with the ES-3, so any thoughts on this would be much appreciated as I've never tried it. 

- ES-3 and Silent Way
- 2 x Q106 Oscillators
- STG Post Lawsuit Filter
- 2 x Q109 Envelope Generator

A nice 'sounding' basic setup - but maybe a little to plain for what I'm hoping for.?  Any thoughts or suggestions would be great as there is really no place to try anything where I live. YouTube videos are not that helpful for planning - to me at least.

Also recently acquired a Moog Little Phatty... any experiences/secrets or tips on advantages/issues using the CV OUT Mod to integrate the Moog into a modular setup would be excellent.


Greetings Robots for Robots forum!

This is my first post... didn't know this forum existed until recently.  Thanks for having me!  Respect to all the amazing artists here.

As many of you are people I would want to ask the most anyway re: tech questions... very happy to have the ability.

Perhaps Sander or someone covered it in this conversation, which is old I see... so excuse rehashing it if I missed it whilst skimming:
Question -
SPECIFICALLY ON THE MOST UP TO DATE JJOSXL for MPC1000 - I've heard of a bug regarding portomento/slide function when you play two of the same notes in succession.  You essentially "can't" as the first not remains latched even if it has been released.  Thus the subsequent same note is not heard. 

Here is the discussion in the MPC forums: … p;t=164447

I am considering trading something for a "maxed out" 1000 with JJXL for LIVE PURPOSES only, mainly sequencing other outboard gear... but the supposed "portomento/slide" bug may be a deal breaker sad

Any insight from seasoned users.  Is it true... no fix for bug?  Does this apply to just sampled sounds on the 1000 or also to midi linked external gear also?

THANK YOU.  Any help is greatly appreciated!